Hey guys!
Glad to have you here on this crochet pattern site, it's very gratifying to share wonderful crochet work, and today I bring you this beautiful Scottish terrier dog crocheted with loose threads, I'm very in love with this realistic amigurumi that was made with real patterns from the real dog.
The dog is such a friendly animal that when we find something similar in standard crochet I am very excited to learn and share the full written tutorial. I hope you like crocheted dogs and amigurumi, as it's something I like a lot. Let's talk about the pattern with the simple step-by-step and all one thing at a time.
This pattern I found explains everything from start to finish with the material used, this was done in black color, but you can use the color you prefer.
So let's crochet?
I am in love with this breed of dog known as the Scottish terrier which is a docile dog for families with children. I hope to see this dog crocheted by you and shared with those who like dogs ok. Big kiss
Necessary materials
• Wires. I used about 140g of acrylic yarn. If you prefer, you can use something else, but remember that cotton yarn does not work because it cannot be brushed. Virtually any acrylic or wool (or a mixture of either) should work. It is a bonus if the yarn is soft and breaks easily. The tighter it is turned, the harder it is you will work in the later stages.
• Crochet needle. I used a size of 3.5mm. If necessary, change the size according to the wire of your choice. You shouldn't see gaps in your work.
• A needle suitable for sewing the pieces.
• Filling. I buy cheap pillows at IKEA and other stores and use their stuffing.
• Safe nose and eyes, unless you want to embroider these details.
• A smoother brush. You can find one at a pet store if needed - buy one Tough dog, not a miserable rabbit brush.
• Patience. And a lot of it.
The process
You can divide the Buster fabrication into four main parts. First you will crochet them all the body parts and assemble them. The next step is to tie the fur, which in my opinion is the most boring part. Finally, the hair will be brushed, cut and styled. After that, you are ready!
Part 1: The parts of the body
Let's start! Time to crochet and how. All parts are made in a continuous spiral.
Make the following body parts:
Head
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)
Row 5 – 14: sc around (24)
Row 15: [1 Inc] 6 times in a row (so first 6 sc = 12 sc), then 1 sc around (30)
Row 16: sc around (30)
Row 17: [1 inc] 6 times in a row, 1 sc around (36)
Row 18 – 25: sc around (36)
Row 26: [4 sc, Dec in next] around (30)
Row 27: [3 sc, Dec in next] around (24)
Row 28: [2 sc, Dec in next] around (18)
Now might be a good time to start adding the filling… and attach the eyes and nose, if you’re using safety ones!
Row 29: [1 sc, Dec in next] around (12)
Row 30: Dec around, sew together the opening (after adding the last of the filling).
Leave a long tail.
The head should resemble an elongated thingie with a clear forehead (called a stop in dog circles), marked as ”upp” here. Not unlike a misshapen baguette.
Ears (make 2)
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)
Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)
Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)
Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)
Row 5: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)
Row 6: 5 sc, then Inc, repeat once (14)
Row 7: sc around (14)
Finish off, leaving long tail. Do not add filling.
The ears should be triangular, a bit elongated and flat.
Body
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4: [2 sc, 1 inc] around (24)
Row 5: [3 sc, 1 inc] around (30)
Row 6: [4 sc, 1 inc] around (36)
Row 7: [5 sc, 1 inc] around (42)
Row 8: [6 sc, 1 inc] around (48)
Row 9-15:sc around (48)
Row 16: Now we are going to Dec 1 by each row, always when starting a new row, followed by sc around the rest. So row 16 will end with 47 sc, row 17 ends with 46 sc etc. Continue doing this until…
Row 30: Dec 1, sc around (32)
Row 31: Stop decreasing! Sc around (32)
Row 32-46: sc around (32)
Row 47: 15 sc, Dec - repeat once (30)
Row 48: [3 sc, Dec] around (24)
Row 49: [2 sc, Dec] around (18)
Now might be a good time to add the filling.
Row 50: [1 sc, Dec] around (12)
Row 51: Dec around, add last of filling and sew together. Sew in tail.
You should now have an elongated shape with a clear ribcage. the thick end goes towards the head (labelled ”huvud”) and the thin is the butt. The plane side is the back and the angled is the underside.
Neck
Row 1: Chain 18, close with a sl st. Try to save a long tail (ie. start further down on the yarn than you would otherwise).
Row 2-10: Inc 1 at start of every row, then sc around. Only row 2 has 19 sc, row 3 has 20 etc. Do this until row 10 when you should have 27 sc. Finish off, saving long tail.
You should now have an elongated, slightly triangular tube. The thinner part goes to the head ("upp"). The "point" goes down towards the front of the chest (not the back – ”rygg”).
Legs (make 4)
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 6 sc
Row 2: Inc in every sc around (12)
Row 3: [1 sc, 1 inc] around (18)
Row 4-19: sc around (18)
Add filling but save a bit of room at the top of each leg. Flatten and sew the openingvtogether. Leave a long tail.
You should have four feeties.
Tail
Row 1: Make a magic circle of 4 sc (4)
Row 2: 1 sc, then Inc, repeat once (6)
Row 3: 2 sc, then Inc, repeat once (8)
Row 4: 3 sc, then Inc, repeat once (10)
Row 5: sc around (10)
Row 6: 4 sc, then Inc, repeat once (12)
Row 7-10: sc around (12)
Add a bit of filling to the tail but not too much, it shouldn’t look fat. Leave a long yarn tail.
Part 2: Assembly
Time to sew all the pieces together!
For the neck - Start by attaching the larger end to the body. Add the stuffing. Now, fold the upper end of neck part a little so you can sew on 2nd or 3rd row instead of the first one. This gives a little extra stability. try to make the head-neck-body transition as smooth as possible is a bit tricky. Stop and check from time to time how's it going.
The hind legs are angled backwards, while the forelegs are straight under the body. Remember to put the frontlegs way in front, a scotty shouldn't have too much forechest.
Make sure you secure all the pieces! You will work hard when brushing your hair and it won't be fun if the parts start to fall out.
If you are going to embroider your nose and eyes, now is a good time. when did my Scotty, I did this as the last step and it was a total mess, the freshly brushed and trimmed skin did everything to get in the way while I was working on the needle.
It should look like this... (translation: Spets = point, Smal = thin, Raka = Straight, Vinklade = angular)
Part 3: Attaching fur
Now it's time to cut approx. 5 billion strands of yarn, each about 7 to 10 cm long. Normally, I double the thread to be able to cut several threads at once - saving time - and then fasten it.
the ones before cutting new ones. Offers at least a little variation.
When securing the yarn, pull your crochet hook under a chosen stitch on your dog.
Now, fold the yarn into a U-shaped loop. Then use the crochet hook to pull the loop. under the stitch before pulling the ends of the yarn through the loop, securing it to the
Score. It looks a lot more complicated than it is!
Add a strand to every (or almost every. Most of them, at least) stitch in the sides and underside of muzzle, like eyebrows, on the front of the chest, on the legs, except for the lower and lower part of the body. Yes, it takes forever.
Make a good movie (or five).
Part 4: Brushing and trimming
Go get your (potentially new and shiny) slicker brush and now brush all the attached strands until they become beautifully fluffy and fur-like. Don’t be afraid to use hard strokes, depending on your yarn it might take a while. The brush will collect some fluff that you need to remove now and then, it can be saved as ultra soft filling if you wish.
(Don’t forget to protect the eyes and nose while using the brush close to them.
brush can damage the plastic or your beautiful embroidened details) The “smooth” parts aren’t intended to be brushed. But feel free to do so if you want a more “ragged” look.
When you have brushed all the fur it's time for the most fun part – time to play dog groomer!
I recommend to start by googling some photos of Scottish terriers, to get an idea of what it should look like. But in short form the beard so it has a nice gradual look towards the skull, fix up the eyebrows a bit. Remove quite a bit from the frontchest, it should have an almost straight line from the throat and down to the ground. Even the legs out all around (don’t forget to check what they look like from below) but try to leave the body fur long, just even it out. Keep alternating between brushing and
trimming until you’re satisfied.
Now your doggie is aaalmost done. But he deserves a collar, don’t you think? thought only.
I made mine using a cotton blend, to make it appear different from the coat. pick a suitable clour and do a chain of around 35 (double check to see if this fits your dog, since it might be a different size from mine). Chain 2 extra, turn. Now hdc to the end.
Repeat once more (chain 2, turn, hdc to the end) or until you’re satisfied with the width. Don’t forget to save a long tail.
Now take the color for the ”ID-badge”. From the magic circle of 6, then Inc around (12).
Finish with a sl st. Now chain 12 and then a sl st back into the badge, so you have a nice little loop attachment.
Thread the collar through the loop, then put on the dog and sew the ends together.
NOW you are done! Congrats, you have made your very own Scotty!
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